Milan Fashion Week SS27: Why the Skirt Stole the Show

The Skirt Takes Centre Stage

Something quietly decisive happened on the Milan runways this season. After several years in which tailoring, denim and exaggerated trousers dominated the conversation, Spring/Summer 2027 pivoted hard towards a softer, more feminine silhouette — and the skirt emerged as the defining styling piece.

No house stated the case more plainly than Prada. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons devoted their entire 63-look collection to the skirt, deliberately leaving both trousers and dresses out of the equation. They framed the garment as a “waist-down canvas for self-expression” — a piece with more visible surface area than trousers, and therefore more room for volume, construction, embellishment, layering and play with proportion.

The results proved the point. Pleats, wraps, crystals, Velcro, technical fabrics, leather-look cotton and sheer materials appeared across the collection, showing how one wardrobe staple can slide between utilitarian, romantic, eccentric and highly technical registers without losing its identity.

One Garment, Many Silhouettes

Prada’s approach highlights what makes the skirt such a useful piece in a modern wardrobe: it never has to look like the same thing twice. A single design can be dressed up or stripped back, left fluid or structured, worn alone or manipulated with layering — and each styling decision produces an entirely different silhouette.

The collection captured that range. An asymmetric wrap-style knee-length skirt in grey wool, finished with raw edges and a Velcro side strip sprinkled with crystal floral embroidery, was worn with a strapless white bandeau tube top, snakeskin-print shoulder bag, red and black shield sunglasses and black open-toe mules. It felt raw and precise at once.

Elsewhere, a sheer pleated yellow midi in technical nylon appeared under a brown cropped hooded nylon windbreaker, with a black bralette, purple wrap sunglasses, grey leather satchel and black mules — a utilitarian, sporty reading of the same idea. A voluminous asymmetric pleated skirt in magenta then shifted the mood again, styled with a camel button-down shirt with white pointed collar, a metallic copper-toned satin bandeau bra with crystal straps, and pointed black kitten heels with a subtle bow motif.

How the Other Houses Took It On

The wider Milan schedule shared Prada’s enthusiasm, each designer interpreting the skirt through their own signature.

At Gucci, Demna used the skirt as a base for high-low layering. A high-waisted pleated black leather midi, cinched with a horse-bit belt, was worn with a striped polo under a voluminous, shearling-trimmed oversized bomber jacket, finished with a structured snakeskin-textured handbag, white tights and pointed black kitten heels. A second look paired a navy and green tartan pleated midi, again belted with a horse-bit, with an ultra-voluminous deep green nylon bomber, a green and red striped knit polo layered over a white collar, a chunky silver statement necklace, white hose, horse-bit pointed pumps and a brown leather woven handbag.

Anteprima, under Izumi Ogino, offered a softer interpretation: a high-waisted pleated charcoal grey midi with a paper-bag waist and ruffled detailing, worn with a sheer pale yellow split polo blouse over a nude top, strappy mauve sandals and a small beaded black drawstring bag.

At Tod’s, Matteo Tamburini chose a vibrant mustard-yellow A-line leather skirt with a high front slit, styled with a brown short-sleeved open-knit top over a light blue t-shirt, a slouchy reddish-brown leather bag and brown suede fringed moccasins.

Volume, Texture and Attitude

Several collections explored the skirt’s sculptural potential. Art259design by Alberto Affinito showed an olive-drab utility midi with an asymmetric waistline and an oversized cargo fold-over flap pocket, worn with an ivory semi-sheer crinkled chiffon blouse with fluid bell sleeves and a slouchy open-weave black leather tote with a thick knotted handle.

Fendi, under Maria Grazia Chiuri, worked with pattern: a high-waisted midi in an abstract nature-inspired black and white graphic print, worn with a black lace bralette beneath a black tailored coat, a thin black leather belt with a gold buckle, a small structured studded handbag, black socks and spectator slingbacks.

Simon Cracker took a deconstructed route with a slate grey cocoon-shaped leather midi featuring exposed hook-and-eye fasteners, paired with a relaxed long-sleeved graphic shirt showing doll illustrations, shimmering textured ankle boots and a grey pebbled leather bag.

Moschino, designed by Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo, went for pure volume: a navy blue padded “pannier”-style knee-length skirt with pockets, worn with a short-sleeved beaded top featuring an abstract face motif, black slingback pumps and semi-rimless eyewear.

Details That Made the Difference

Texture and surface treatment carried several of the season’s most memorable skirts. Bottega Veneta, under Louis Trotter, showed a lavender mid-length skirt of looped fringe with layered strands over satin, styled with an oversized cream cotton poplin button-up shirt with western-style stitching, a purple crochet kufi hat, a red woven clutch and yellow starburst earrings.

MSGM, designed by Massimo Giorgetti, covered a high-waisted black midi in tinsel-like fringe, layered under a semi-sheer brown button-down shirt in a glossy, liquid-like coated fabric, accessorised with a thin black leather belt at the hips and black peep-toe pumps.

Dressing With the Skirt This Season

Taken together, these looks offer a practical lesson for anyone building a spring wardrobe. The skirt is no longer simply the alternative to trousers — it is the piece doing the most expressive work in an outfit.

A few ideas worth borrowing from the runways:

• Lean into volume. Pleats, padding, fringing and cocoon shapes all add movement and presence. Balance them with a close-fitting top or a cropped jacket.
• Use hardware and texture. Velcro strips, exposed hook-and-eye fasteners, crystals, horse-bit belts and tinsel fringe give a simple shape a focal point.
• Mix technical with soft. Nylon windbreakers, leather-look cotton and sheer fabrics sit comfortably alongside silk, chiffon and satin for a modern contrast.
• Play with layering. Bandeau tops, bralettes under tailored coats and polos beneath bombers show how the waistline can be redefined without changing the skirt itself.
• Let one piece carry the look. Whether it is tartan, graphic print or a single saturated colour such as mustard or magenta, choosing a statement skirt simplifies everything worn with it.

After seasons dominated by sharp trousers, the pendulum has swung towards something more romantic and more versatile. The skirt is back at the centre of the silhouette — and this time it is built to do far more than one job.