Men's Fashion Trends FW27/28: Lighter Volumes and Blurred Boundaries

Maximum volume, minimum weight

For autumn/winter 2027/28, menswear is embracing a new sense of scale. Jackets, trousers and down pieces are growing larger and more voluminous, yet the surprising twist is that this bulk does not translate into heaviness. As trend forecaster Edwin van den Hoek explains, “It looks very big, but it is very light to wear.” Technical materials allow clothing to appear heavy or even bulky while remaining featherlight in practice. This interplay of form and function extends to accessories and shoes, which also combine a voluminous look with low weight.

The innovation lies in how materials are constructed. By fusing fabrics together under heat, padded or inflated structures can be created without traditional stitching. This not only keeps the fabric waterproof but also allows the shape of the surface to be manipulated. The result is a silhouette that feels protective and substantial without weighing the wearer down.

Escape to nature

As a counter-reaction to our fast-paced digital lives, the need for peace and seclusion is growing. This theme, which Van den Hoek calls ‘Secluded’, manifests in menswear through functional clothing, technical materials and an earthy colour palette. Brown, green and neutral tones dominate, while soft and hairy qualities such as faux fur and teddy add volume and tactility.

Natural dyes are also gaining ground. Experiments with tea, coffee, corn and tree bark are creating new colour nuances. According to Van den Hoek, the limitations of these dyes actually produce a richness of colour gradations. What also stands out is the use of fur – not as a material, but as a print. A photograph of fur, for example, can be printed on nylon or a silk-like quality, playing with the boundary between reality and surrealism.

All about layers

Within the ‘Creative’ trend theme, traditional styles are reimagined. The preppy look, for instance, gets a contemporary update by combining classic items with unexpected layers. This focus on recombining and stacking clothes is particularly visible around the neck. Van den Hoek sees different layers coming together there: a turtleneck, over it a shirt, a waistcoat and then a jacket. Layering thus becomes an important part of the silhouette in itself.

Fur and other hairy materials also appear frequently around the collar. Van den Hoek notes this not only on the catwalk but also on the street. He finds the latter particularly interesting. “On the street, you see that people are consciously thinking about it themselves, rather than having a whole styling team or commercially driven idea behind a certain look.”

Leather, too, takes on a more refined role. Beyond traditional applications like the leather jacket or bag, it appears as a material for a shirt, a collar or a patch pocket. In this way, leather becomes a detail within an otherwise classic garment.

Traditional gender boundaries are blurring

Designers are increasingly experimenting with shapes and materials previously considered feminine. Think of skirts, very wide shorts that almost look like a skirt, aprons and flowing, transparent materials. According to Van den Hoek, this development is not about a shift that brands must necessarily follow, but about broadening the possibilities within menswear collections. Thus, the traditional division between men’s and women’s clothing becomes less strict, allowing items like skirts to become part of the offering for men.

Van den Hoek sees this development particularly in Asian brands from Japan, China, Korea and Taiwan. According to him, they are less bound by traditional Western patterns and therefore experiment more with the boundaries between masculine and feminine. He does not expect a massive shift towards skirts. “I don’t believe that if you stand on the ferry here in Amsterdam-Noord, you will suddenly see all men wearing skirts. However, I do believe a shift is taking place,” says the trend forecaster.

The colour palette for FW27/28

Despite the different directions, the colour palette for the entire FW27/28 season remains relatively calm, according to Van den Hoek. Various shades of grey form an important basis, not only in clothing but also in store interiors. He cites a pilot store from Stone Island in Milan as an example, where different shades of grey were used in both the interior and the clothing.

In contrast, there are warm neutrals such as sand, beige, brown and cognac, complemented by deeper shades of red and various shades of green, from army to brighter green. It is precisely within these calm colour palettes that there is room for contrast. The warm, subdued base is combined with a single bold colour, such as almost fluorescent green, bright blue or an acid-like yellow hue. In addition, pink is increasingly seen as less of a taboo in menswear.

For FW27/28, Van den Hoek therefore does not expect completely new menswear, but rather a reinterpretation of existing codes. Classic masculinity is becoming softer and volumes are getting larger but lighter. Technical functionality is given a more fashionable interpretation. Fur, leather and other rich materials are being used in new ways. At the same time, a striking contrast colour ensures that the subdued colour palette does not become completely neutral.