Meet the Three Emerging Designers Defining Quiet Luxury

The New Wave of Independent Design

In a market saturated with logos and trend cycles, three independent labels are capturing attention for a different reason: a commitment to craft, storytelling and distinctive design language. Conner Ives, Emily Dawn Long and Mfpen have been identified as the quarter’s fastest-moving brands, signalling a growing appetite for designers who prioritise originality over imitation.

Katy Lubin, VP of brand and communications at Lyst, notes that this quarter’s standout brands all share a unique point of view. “They are instantly recognisable and have a strong visual identity,” she says. “Each also had a standout moment that pushed them to new audiences, driving discoverability as well as desire.” For these three labels, those moments ranged from a celebrity-endorsed vintage robe to a viral T-shirt and a high-profile sneaker collaboration.

Conner Ives: Reinventing Vintage for a New Generation

Conner Ives, a Central Saint Martins graduate, founded his London-based label in 2021 after gaining early recognition for dressing Adwoa Aboah at the 2017 Met Gala. His work is deeply rooted in reworking vintage and deadstock garments into contemporary pieces. The Reconstituted Vintage Robe, worn by figures from Kate Moss to Hailey Bieber, became a catalyst for growth, helping to drive a 49 percent increase in searches for the brand.

Ives’s aesthetic often blends nostalgia with a modern sensibility. His bias-cut headscarf dress and slogan T-shirt “Protect the Dolls” have both garnered significant attention, the latter becoming a sensation in 2025. That same year, he won the BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund, which includes a £150,000 grant and a year of mentorship—further cementing his position as a designer to watch.

Emily Dawn Long: Handcrafted with a Story

Emily Dawn Long started her eponymous label in 2019, initially making tie-dye pieces in her New York apartment. Today, the brand is known for its artisanal techniques, from vegetable-dyed tie-dye to hand-crocheted cotton hats like the “A Hat Named Wanda,” famously worn by Kendrick Lamar. In 2025, Long transformed her Lower East Side studio into a by-appointment store, offering a more intimate shopping experience.

Originally from Georgia, Long designs both menswear and womenswear and was a 2026 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist. Her spring/summer 2027 collection was unveiled through a four-minute short film, “The Crack of Dawn,” which helped elevate her profile. Signature pieces include the Kipling Tank and the Utah Dress, while her “Spoiled Boys” T-shirt generated a 17 percent increase in demand.

Mfpen: Sustainable Minimalism with a Cult Following

Founded by Sigurd Bank, Mfpen is a Copenhagen-based label that transforms deadstock fabric from other brands’ production into limited runs. The brand’s ethos of simplicity, functionality and sustainability has resonated with shoppers looking for thoughtful design. Celebrating its 10th anniversary, Mfpen presented its spring/summer 2027 “Deadlines” show at Copenhagen Fashion Week, where it unveiled a New Balance Made in USA 992 with the brand’s signature “N” logo removed, leaving only a faint outline. The grey suede-and-mesh sneaker is expected in March 2027.

The Mfpen x New Balance 991v1 also drove a 37 percent rise in demand for the label, underscoring the power of strategic collaborations in reaching new audiences.

The Consumer Appetite for Authenticity

According to Lubin, the US and Europe are the key drivers of demand for these brands. She observes a consumer appetite for pieces that feel handcrafted, ornate and have a story to tell. This shift is also reflected in the broader market, where Dries Van Noten has entered the Hottest Brands list for the first time, with its Scarf-Skirt among the Hottest Products.

The success of Conner Ives, Emily Dawn Long and Mfpen suggests that shoppers are increasingly drawn to designers who offer something beyond the ordinary—pieces that carry a narrative of craftsmanship, sustainability and personal expression. In a world of fast fashion, these labels prove that authenticity and a clear design vision can cut through the noise.